Siena Rapture Could it be the air ? Setting aside the historical rivalry with nearby Florence, there are many indicators pointing to something unique in Siena. The popular locations are rightfully appreciated. But, like motherhood statements, one needs to scratch the surface... to discover the many riches of this city. And the air of madness about takes a charm of its own.
Possibly the best way to dive into the Siennese world is to arrive on the day following the Palio and experience the festivity of the winning contrada (one of the centuries-old sections of town) among the narrow streets and winding roads, impractical structures for automobiles and thus banned for over fourty years. And quickly one reaches the scene of the crime, piazza del Campo, and remains speechless. Pespectives, lines and shadows combine in what appears to be a geometrically perfect object. But it's not; and one wonders how they came about this idea... The quick conlusion is force majeure: no choice, that's what was available. Yet... what if someone actually took up the challenge of demonstrating the perfection of a squared circle...
Exploring this medieval burg of exceptional quality, its steep roads and sudden openings on the surrounding countryside is a random walk amidst pleasureful surprises.
Naturally, no itinerary should steer one away from the piazza del Duomo and its Spedale di Santa Maria della Scala. That would be pure madness. But so would an end to the visit, for the artistic treasures here are bottomless. One can admire various paintings of Duccio di Buoninsegna, an important Sienese painter of the XIIth century, in various locations: the Madonna dei Francescani at the Pinacoteca or the Maestà at the Museo dell'opera del Duomo. The public city library, is an archive of interesting works. The State archives (palazzo Piccolomini) is also custodian to many treasures... Just one example: for over four centures administrative documents were collated and decorated by works commissioned to the most important artists of the time. A sign of what quirks one can afford with disposable ressources.
Ah yes, economic might and the arts. Assume a trivial motive to go to the bank. Say the head office of Monte dei Paschi. In the heart of this medieval burg the palace was renovated to maintain its historical fabric while creating inside a contemporary work of architectural wonder; a sort of breath of fresh air in a time bubble. No surprise to discover that the bank houses its own private museum with treasures from the Middle Ages on, in addition to documentation half a millennium old.
One starts thinking and wondering how a contrada rivalry, or one with the cousins of Florence, is not much different from those that define this nation. Or any other nation for that matter. Except that in Siena, these matters must stand out. Demonstratively. Just like that little wisp of madness we all bear inside.
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